The eel at the little divey place in Akihabara is better than the regular eel in Kyoto, but not as special as the special eel. The quality conger, while indeed exhibiting some quality, was slightly less special still.
Author Archives: mdw
Matsumoto to Tokyo
Matsumoto to Tokyo was simple: northeast to Nagano on the limited express, then southeast to Tokyo. After that…
I took the Yamanote line from Ueno station. It loops around the city, so I thought I could get a look at the different areas. All I got a look at was the people standing next to me, and occasionally some buildings and train tracks. And I might have seen Shibuya Crossing. Not sure. So I wasted about an hour looping back to Ueno station.
Now then. I have a membership with Toyoko Inn, which is a chain of inexpensive business hotels. They’re all over Japan. But in order to find one, I had to look them up online, and that meant that I had to find wifi. I hadn’t had wifi access since the fish & chips place in Matsumoto. Starbucks has free wifi, but you have to sign up for it first, which means you need an Internet connection first. If I had that, I wouldn’t need the wifi.
But I had signed up for it, just in case. Now I just needed access long enough to get to the confirmation email that they should have sent.
So I got off at Ueno to see if there was public wifi. Nothing. I walked a few blocks from the station to see if I could see a Toyoko Inn. Nothing. But I knew there was a Toyoko Inn near Akihabara, and that was just two more stops, so I got back on the train and went there.
I couldn’t see anything near the station, but I found really slow wifi in one area in front of the station, which enabled me to confirm my Starbucks registration. There was a Starbucks on the third floor of a department store adjacent to the station. So: upstairs, buy a latte, and…no place to sit. Found a bench in the department store and connected to Starbucks. “Cannot connect because you do not have an Internet connection.” Tried several times.
Back downstairs with all my stuff, including a latte I didn’t really want. Tried to put some of the stuff in a locker, but didn’t have enough coins. Carried everything back to the slow wifi area and got to the page with Toyoko Inn’s address and walked there. It’s not really that close.
They only had a vacancy for tonight. I still have to find a place for the rest of the nights, but at least I have wifi here.
There Are Many Ways to Injure Yourself on the Escalator
Monkey Failure
I had intended to visit Mt. Takasaki Monkey Land on Kyushu, but ran short of time and had to backtrack to Kumamoto rather than do the Kyushu loop I had originally planned.
No problemo. I would just stop at the Iwatayama Monkey Park near Arashiyama. But it was late in the afternoon by the time I got there, so I skipped it, thinking it would be better to see the onsen monkeys near Nagano anyway. They’re the famous ones. And I’m in Nagano now.
But it turns out that the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park is not really all that close to Nagano. You have to take a train for an hour, then take a bus, then walk for a half hour. The weather’s cleared up, but there’s supposed to be a typhoon coming. And I’m carrying all my stuff.
So to hell with the monkeys. I’m going to Tokyo.
The Biggest Pendulum Clock in Japan
Matsumoto Manhole Cover
Nunoya Ryokan
My room is on the third floor — window at the side.
The Castle and the Inner Moat
Matsumoto Castle
The cool, clear mountain air is more enjoyable when it’s not raining. I borrowed an umbrella and walked to Matsumoto Castle. While most of the samurai castles in Japan are reconstructions, Matsumoto is the original, built in 1593. It’s real, and it’s spectacular.
And it was just as crowded as Kumamoto was, despite the rain. Fortunately, I got there early enough that I didn’t have to wait to get in. But there were already a lot people inside.
You have to take off your shoes to enter the castle. They give you plastic bags for your shoes and for your umbrella. So people were carrying shoes, umbrellas, cameras, purses, small children, and whatever else while they filed through the six stories of the castles. The stairs throughout the castle are extremely steep, so people had to carry all their stuff up these steep stairs while other people were filing down the same set of stairs. On fairly slick wood. In their socks. There were some grips on the steps, but not much. At least we didn’t have to wear slippers.
I sort of attached myself to a group of four people who had an English-speaking guide. They didn’t seem to mind, and I don’t think the guide even noticed.
The line grew considerably while I was in there.
The castle also had an impressive gun collection. I had not realized that the samurai used guns, but they used matchlocks starting in the 16th century and were using rifles and revolvers by the time of the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Of course, they disarmed everyone else.
When I left there was some kind of matchlock demonstration going on, but I never figured out exactly what they were doing.
Next to that was a drumming demonstration, which I could hear later on from my room.
I spent much of the rest of the afternoon wandering around Matsumoto in the rain looking for a samurai house that I never found. I figured I’d be okay if I could keep track of where the river was, but the river branches all over the place. Eventually I found my way back to the ryokan and dried off.
Now I’m having fish & chips at an Irish pub. And how does Japan do Irish pubs? Extremely well. The fish & chips is comparable to New Zealand’s, the service is excellent, and they’re playing the Pogues.
But now it’s time to go back and see if I can figure out a Japanese bath.
Kyoto Culinary Roundup
The surprise winner of the different types of sushi I tried in Kyoto was the special eel. There was no equivalent Japanese name given. I tried asking for unagi and got another type of eel that was decidedly less special. I don’t know what made the special eel special, but it was definitely a cut above other eels.
Other items of note: pounded bonito (I guess it wouldn’t come willingly), oral squid (which remained silent), tuna yukhoe (tuna and raw egg), octopus (rubbery), rapana venosa (rubbery), and shrimp tempura.
The worst was the horse’s mane, which was on the same plate as the regular horsemeat. It was so rubbery that I couldn’t chew it at all and had to swallow it whole. So I say to you: choose your horsemeat carefully.